LISBON

The charm of the Portuguese capital resides in its strong links to the past; restored palaces, majestic churches and an imposing hilltop castle reflect the city's rich cultural heritage.

Lisbon's history is a ready mix of concrete fact and legend. Both the Elder Pliny and Portuguese poet Luis de Camžes gave credence to the story that the city was founded by Ulysses, but in actual fact it was the Phoenicians who, twelve hundred years before Christ, settled on the Tagus Estuary because it offered a safe haven for their galleys. They built a city that they called Alis Ubbo (calm port) and under their control it prospered for more than six centuries. The Greeks, then the Romans, followed by the Barbarians and finally the Moors, by turns won and lost this city of the Tagus, whose name changed with each new master.

In 1147, Portugal's first king, Afonso Henriques, helped by thousands of Flemish, Norman, German and English crusaders on their way to the Holy Land, finally expelled the Moors who had been in residence since 714. Lisbon was finally pronounced the capital in 1256.

Portugal prospered during the 15th and 16th centuries as a succession of explorers penetrated the four corners of the globe. Their discoveries brought great wealth to Lisbon in the form of gold, diamonds, silks and spices.

In 1908, the assassination of King Carlos I in Lisbon's main square, PraÁa do ComÈrcio, triggered the end of the country's 767-year-old monarchy, forcing Manuel II to flee to Britain two years later.

What to see.

The city has many highlights, most within easy walking district from the city centre. Most interesting is the Alfama district, one of the most colourful neighbourhoods in Portugal. Developed by the Moors, it is one of the only areas of Lisbon to have survived the great earthquake that levelled the city on 1 November, 1755, remaining virtually unchanged ever since. The neighbourhood sits on a hilltop overlooking the lower part of Lisbon, known as the Baixa. Filled with old homes huddled in a maze of twisty alleyways, the Alfama is best explored on foot and at a leisurely pace. Visitors never tire of wandering through the district's narrow cobblestone streets and examining the intricate craftsmanship of the medieval homes and tile-covered walls.

From here, the uphill trek to the Castle of S“o Jorge is rewarded with a spectacular view from the top. The red-tiled roofs of the city below can be seen all the way down to the River Tagus, which cuts through Lisbon on its way to the Atlantic in the distance. The castle itself is an authentic medieval structure which was thoroughly restored prior to Lisbon's EXPO'98 World Exposition. A recently-opened multimedia exhibition inside provides an intriguing insight into the city's ancient history.

Located in Lisbon's BelÈm district, the magnificent Mosteiro dos JerÛnimos and its church are considered Portugal's premier work of Renaissance and Manueline architecture. The monument was originally built to serve as a pantheon for royal burials of the Avis-Beja dynasty, of which King Manuel I was to be the first. Dedicated to the Virgin of Bethlehem, building work began in 1501 and was completed 70 years later. It was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.

At about the same time, the nearby Torre de BelÈm was built on the north bank of the River Tagus to defend Lisbon against the perils and dangers of opposing fleets. As a symbol of the king's prestige, its decoration includes all the hallmark Manueline symbols such as cables, elegant knots and armillary spheres. It was also declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.

Further along the riverbank in BelÈm stands the Monument to the Discoveries, built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Prince Henry the Navigator's death. He can be seen standing at the helm of a ship, followed by several other Portuguese explorers, poets and artists.

The former EXPO site now called the Parque das NaÁžes, is a first-choice attraction for most visitors to Lisbon. Providing a full day's sightseeing, the park's highlight is without doubt the Lisbon Oceanarium, which comprises five tanks containing sharks, rays and several smaller species. Other attractions include the Knowledge Pavilion, the Vasco da Gama Tower and a journey on the Lisbon Cable Car.

Museum fans won't want to miss the unique collection of coaches at the recently restored Museu Nacional dos Coches, housed in a former riding hall attached to the presidential palace in BelÈm. The oldest exhibit is an early 17th-century coach used by the conquering Spanish king Filipe II.

Nearby.

The Lisbon Coast comprises two stretches of golden coastline within easy reach of Lisbon. Here, visitors have the chance to escape from the city to play golf, relax on the beach or explore remote fishing villages during their stay. Lying north of the River Tagus and more easily accessible of the two is the Estoril Coast & Sintra region, a strip of land measuring 20 by 40 kilometres. South of the Tagus, the lesser-known Costa Azul (Blue Coast) is a peaceful paradise of quaint fishing villages and long, sandy beaches.